Just to prove that we are still alive

The Road to Cairns.

After our chat with the locals in the RSL I decided that it may be a good idea to go direct to Cairns rather than going to Townsville and then up the coast to Cairns. So at Cloncurry after visiting the John Flynn place and the story of the Royal Flying Doctor Service we headed north to Normanton and as there wasn’t a lot there up to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria where there was even less. We then headed east again through Croydon, Georgetown and to Mount Surprise. It was then on to the Undara Lava Tubes. These are massive tunnels formed when the Undara volcano erupted and the outside of the lava flows hardened but the lava inside kept flowing. You would think they would be small and difficult to get through but they are to 19m high and nearly 1km long. They also are home to various creatures including micro bats which were happy to fly around for us to see them. We also walked round the crater of the Kalkani volcano. Our next stop was Atherton in the tablelands behind Cairns where we will probably go back to for a proper look. We then arrived in Cairns a month early.

Mount Isa

Mount Isa is a big mining town and the biggest city in the world in terms of surface area. I wouldn’t say it was the prettiest place we have been to but there was a very interesting museum recording the history of mining in the area and a fossil collection. It also had several clubs which of course we had to try. The RSL was good but then we visited the Irish Club. It is supposed to be the biggest Irish club in the world and it was huge. There were several bars, two nightclubs, a restaurant and a restored Melbourne tramcar for a café. We mentioned it to Graeme and Hazel and it was decided that a night spent there would be a great idea especially as they run a courtesy coach which you just phone for when you want to go there. We spent the evening watching the highlights of the weekend Premiership, drinking larger amounts of beer and wine and then finished off with a few dollars in the pokies. We decided to stay an extra day in order to visit the RSL where we had a good chat with the locals and came away with stubby holders and coasters each. Everybody is so friendly and welcoming and always happy to have a chat and give you the benefit of their local knowledge. We also saw our first red back spider. They aren't that dangerous unless you annoy them by taking their photo!

South to Tennant Creek and then East to Mount Isa

As we were going in the same direction we joined up with Graeme and Hazel with the idea that if anything went wrong we could support each other! We set off from Katherine about an hour after Graeme and Hazel and stopped at the Cutta Cutta caves for a tour round. We then headed on south to Larrimah to take a picture of the Pink Panther outside the pub and then on down to Daly Waters where we were going to stop for the night. The pub is really something. There is money, clothes, underwear, ID’s, business cards and all sorts of other stuff that people have left behind to decorate the place. It has a bottle tree, a thong (flip flops to you Brits) tree and a Bundy Bear tree. It was great and just what you would expect of an outback pub for some reason. The following day it was down to Tennant Creek and yet again we arrived after Graeme & Hazel. They were by the pool when we arrived so it made sense to join them. I jumped in and it was freezing! We’ve been used to the pools being on the warm side and this one was cold which came as a bit of a shock. At Tennant Creek we turned eastwards for the trip to the coast. There aren’t a lot of places to stop between Tennant Creek and Mount Isa so we decided just to get as far as we could in one days hard driving and we managed to get over the state boundary into Queensland and into the township of Camooweal. The following morning it was a short run into Mount Isa.

Katherine.

After leaving Litchfield we headed down the Stuart Highway again for Katherine. The van started making a funny noise and then we realised that we were overheating a bit. We were only a few kilometres from Pine Creek so managed to get to the garage where we discovered that the van was leaking water a bit. One of the hoses had gone. Managed to get as far as Katherine and so another saga begins…..

It turned out that a water hose had a hole in it probably done when the gearbox was fitted. So we wandered around Katherine looking for anywhere that sold spares and there were a few. Unfortunately they did not have he hose we wanted in stock and it would have to be ordered from Adelaide and airfreighted up (for a large fee). We were promised that it would arrive the following day. It didn’t. Apparently someone decided that it would be quicker to put it on a truck rather than a plane and surprise surprise it wasn’t. After the saga of the gearbox we were prepared for this set back but still threatened the guy in the store with violence if it didn’t arrive the next day. In Australia NT doesn’t stand for Northern Territory but for Not Today, Not Tomorrow, and I thought the Spanish were bad!
Still as promised it did turn the following day and repairs were done. As it happened Graeme and Hazel were also having more dramas with their VW but they turned up on site just as Graham had finished the repairs so to celebrate we went out for a beer or two.

Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks.

Rather than go on a tour to Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks we decided to drive ourselves as they are on the way back down to Katherine. The only problem is that they are nearly opposite each other and it meant driving up and down the same road a couple of times. We decided to do Kakadu first which with hindsight was probably not a good idea as it meant more driving up and down the same road than if we’d gone to Litchfield first.

After passing Humpty Doo our first stop was at Adelaide River Crossing where we joined a Jumping Crocs cruise. There was only one other couple on the boat so it was quite personal. We hadn’t even left the jetty when the first saltie (salt water crocodile) was spotted. Apparently he turned up a few months ago and has made himself at home. Of course it does help that he is enticed to stay by being offered a bit of buffalo meat dangled on a string over the side of the boat to encourage him to jump out of the water. You would think that he had been trained as he performed on cue every time. We left him in peace and went off down stream in search of more crocs. And more we found and each time they were persuaded to jump for their dinner. They were also joined by sea eagles and whistling kites that were also quite happy to swoop over and grab a bit of meat given the chance. I would also tell you about the huge cobwebs and spiders at the side of the riverbank but I had my eyes closed at that point. We journeyed on and stopped for the night at Jabiru to plan what to see and when.

Our first stop the next morning was at Ubirr where there are a lot of Aboriginal rock paintings and a look out over the wetlands of Kakadu. We then went on to the Ranger Uranium Mine which seems at odds with being in the middle of national park. And then on to Nourlangie Rock for some more rock art and another lookout over the rock itself. We couldn’t visit Jim Jim Falls or Twin Falls as we do not have a 4WD so will have to save them for when we come back. The following morning we were bright and early for a cruise on Yellow Waters where again we saw salties but these were bigger and left to cruise up and down the river as nature intended. The bird life was amazing including sea eagles, whistling kites, jabirus, egrets, kingfishers, herons and darters.

We left Kakadu and then headed back up the Stuart Highway to Litchfield. Litchfield is much smaller than Kakadu and is easily visited in one day and most things are on sealed roads. Litchfield consists of gorges, swimming holes and waterfalls and no crocs so it is safe to swim. Considering that the swimming pools here are usually warm it was nice to get into some cold water for a change.

Darwin

The following morning we left for Darwin where we arrived about lunchtime. We booked onto a site and went off in search of a supermarket and Big W. We found a huge shopping centre all nicely air conditioned and spent a while enjoying the cold. When we left we went past a sign advertising another RSL and we decided to take a quick look. We were requested to sit outside as Graham only had a sleeveless t-shirt on but it wasn’t a problem as the fns were on and it nice and shady. We just sat down when one of the locals called us over to join them for a chat. They probably regretted it later as we went in every day after that!

The following morning we got a text from Graeme and Hazel and met them for a few beers in town and decided to go for a meal later in the week when they had been to Kakadu.

We did all the touristy things visiting the port, some of the WWII sites and what few old buildings they have left which either missed being bombed by the Japanese or were left standing after cyclone Tracey hit in 1974. We visited the Chinese temple, Cullen Bay (where the other half seem to live), Fannie Bay, The East Point , botanical gardens and the museum and art gallery. We went for a night out with Graeme and Hazel which was fun.

On to Darwin

We left Kununurra about an hour or so later than the couple in the VW. (Graeme and Hazel we found out). After about 50km we crossed into the Northern Territory and the clocks went forward by an hour and a half. About 200km who was at the side of the road but Graeme and Hazel broken down. Graham did a quick fix on their van and changed their coil for our spare and things seemed to be fine but we said that we would follow them to make sure. Every thing seemed tickety boo and we left them at Victoria River and we carried on to Katherine. Booked on to a site and then went into town for a beer and dinner. The first bar we went into was OK but wasn’t serving food so we went on to the Last Chance Saloon and looking at some of the clientele it was aptly named. It was full of what can only be described as local colour so we left hastily and found a nice RSL instead.

The Bungle Bungles.

We were picked up from the campsite at 5.30am to fly to the Bungle Bungles from Kununurra. We flew over the Ord River and the Diversion Dam which was built when they created lake Kununurra. They then built an even bigger dam to form Lake Argyle which was created to irrigate the surrounding areas during the Dry. This lake is immense and we only saw it at the end of the Dry. We landed at Bellburn International Airport to be met by a big 4WD truck and whisked off to base camp for brekkie. Graham was a bit upset as he was expecting a full English but the fruit, cereal and tea and coffee went down well with most people. We were then taken off to the beginning of Piccaninny Creek for a short walk to the look out and then on to Cathedral Gorge which is spectacular even though it meant getting my feet wet. We then went on to Echidna Chasm where we had lunch and an afternoon walk into the chasm itself. It is a long narrow chasm about 1km long that gets narrower and narrower and just when you think that you’ve reached the end another bit opens up. The Bungle Bungles themselves are orange and black striped beehive shaped domes that look amazing. Just like the Karijini what ever I say about this place I can never do just to it. We then flew back to Kununurra in time for a beer before dinner.

Kununurra.

We arrived in Kununurra and headed straight for the visitor centre as we usually do, as they can be really helpful. As it was 30th October and a lot of the trips and that finish on 31st I wanted to know what was still running and what was likely to be running for a bit longer. As it happened the trip that we were going to do in Broome to the Bungle Bungles was still running from Kununurra but the 31st was the last day but they were doing a deal and upgrading the cheapest deal to the next one up which would give us $200 of extras each. Well you know me, I know a bargain when I see one and even though we had done a replacement for this trip it was a good deal so I booked it. Sod the budget! (G:Have we got a budget?)(J:Not anymore!!) The following day we went off to the Bungle Bungles which I will do in greater detail next blog. We then decided that as we had bee up so early the last couple of days we would spend another day in Kununurra and have leisurely look around the place. We went to the Zebra rock gallery which was interesting. They mine a rock which is striped like a Zebra but this can only be done at the end of the dry season when the water levels are low enough. It is really different. We then went to Hidden Valley which is like a Mini Me of the Bungle Bungles. When we got back to the site the was a VW combi parked next to us being driven by a young Scottish couple who were having a bit of trouble. Well as Graham was at a bit of a loose end he decided to help them out. They were grateful and he was happy as a pig in shit!

The trip to Kununarra

As we had lost a bit of time we decided that we would head direct to Kununurra and forget any sight seeing on the way. Our first stop was at Fitzroy Crossing where we had been warned not to stay in the campsite in town as it was full of Aborigines and they could be a bit intimidating but to stay at the resort site. It was very nice but the camp kitchen was a bit basic and I met my first huntsman spider and hopefully my last. We forgot about the no sight seeing rule and took a cruise along Geikie Gorge first thing the following morning, which was beautiful, and we just about saw a freshie (fresh water crocodile). The guide was very good and told us a lot about Aboriginal culture and their way of life.

Our next destination was Halls Creek which I have to say is the pits of the earth and worse. The campsite was shit, the Aborigines are either drunk or drugged to the eyeballs and on Sundays everything is closed. It did have one redeeming feature; the sports bar in the hotel was nice and open to members only if you get my drift! Left very early next morning for Kununurra.

Broome and the continuing saga of the gearbox.

We decided that as we were stuck in Broome we would do the trips from there that we were going to do from Kununurra in case we didn’t get there in time. So off we trots to the visitor centre to book a trip into the Bungle Bungles only to be told that they weren’t running anymore as it was too hot. So we decided to do a trip to the Horizontal Falls. These are like a waterfall but the water surges through gaps in the cliffs rather than over the edge. The trip consisted of a seaplane to Talbot Bay and RIB boat ride through the falls and then a scenic flight back. It was great fun, the guy driving the boat certainly knew how to get the most out of it!! Great morning out.

The following day was gearbox day. They promised that they would phone as soon as the box arrived but by 10.00am Graham was getting so impatient that he phoned them. It wasn’t on the lorry apparently it was too late to put it on when they ordered it on Monday and it would now be Friday. I will leave it to your imagination what Graham said but it wasn’t pretty.
Still as I have said Broome is a lovely place to be stuck. We had cable beach just across the road which is 22km of sandy beach with hardly a soul to be seen, The only draw back was that there was next to no shade which was a shame as we would have gone there a bit more. The town it’s self is small with lots of small shops to wander around and a couple of places doing tours about the pearling industry and exhibitions about how it all started and what is happening now. It started off that they were not so much after pearls themselves as the mother of pearl from the shells for buttons, cutlery handles etc. After the invention of plastics they at but lost their lively hoods. However they were saved after the war by the Japanese who invested in the area raising cultured pearls which in a way was paying something back considering they bombed the hell out of them during the war. We also met some lovely people including three Australian girls who happened to be going to Port Hedland where we got the wrong box from and took it back for us. We also were given some lovely fish one night that a guy had caught but couldn’t eat so every one in the camp kitchen that night got a nice big piece. The campsite had a nice pool and there was Internet access in the shop next door although we did have to pay!

Friday came and the gearbox arrived as promised but not till after mid-day. We took the van over to the repairers and it turns out that the box is not a reconditioned box at all but just a second hand one. By now I had Graham on a lead as I couldn’t trust him to behave! And to make matters even worse as if they could they wouldn’t fit it till Saturday which they did. We spent the morning wandering round the market and shops while they fixed it. In our rush to leave we forgot to do the shopping and stock up on beer but never mind we were moving again.

There seems to have been a problem with publishing photos so I am publishing some more sorry if they are duplicated.

The Pinnacles at Cervantes.

Our new friend